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创意与利益共生,让面料与服装畅通对话!

发布时间

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2018.06.21

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中(zhong)国纺织面料(liao)流行(xing)趋势研究与发(fa)布联盟开展(zhan)2019/2020秋冬“时尚万里行(xing)”


    在(zai)央(yang)视财经(jing)频道(dao)《时(shi)尚大(da)(da)师》栏目中,提及面(mian)(mian)料(liao),《VOGUE 服饰与美容(rong)》杂志主编张(zhang)宇和(he)参赛(sai)设计(ji)师都指出,当前中国(guo)服装(zhuang)设计(ji)有一(yi)(yi)个(ge)困扰(rao),就是面(mian)(mian)料(liao),即使是在(zai)北京、上(shang)海这样的(de)城市做服装(zhuang)设计(ji),选面(mian)(mian)料(liao)也是一(yi)(yi)个(ge)很大(da)(da)的(de)困难(nan)。对此(ci)(ci),业内(nei)争论纷起:难(nan)道(dao)中国(guo)的(de)纺织面(mian)(mian)料(liao)竟如此(ci)(ci)“拖后(hou)腿(tui)”吗?


  据悉,2018年(nian)(nian)一季度(du)我国纺(fang)织(zhi)(zhi)行业出口数量同比增(zeng)长(zhang)4%,景气(qi)指(zhi)数为57.3,规模以(yi)上纺(fang)织(zhi)(zhi)业产能利(li)用率(lv)高达(da)80.7%,高于全国规模以(yi)上工(gong)业4.2个(ge)百(bai)分点;与此同时,我国纺(fang)织(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)服(fu)装(zhuang)内需市场(chang)增(zeng)长(zhang)加快,全国限额(e)以(yi)上纺(fang)织(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)零售(shou)额(e)同比提高3.6个(ge)百(bai)分点,且(qie)增(zeng)速(su)提升至与同期全社会(hui)消(xiao)费品(pin)零售(shou)总额(e)增(zeng)速(su)相(xiang)当。这些只是近年(nian)(nian)来(lai)中(zhong)(zhong)国纺(fang)织(zhi)(zhi)行业发(fa)展(zhan)的(de)一个(ge)缩影,还有越(yue)来(lai)越(yue)多的(de)国内外(wai)知名服(fu)装(zhuang)品(pin)牌如Calvin Klein、Armani、七匹狼等(deng),都选择(ze)中(zhong)(zhong)国纺(fang)织(zhi)(zhi)面(mian)料(liao)企业作为供应商(shang)。有如此发(fa)展(zhan)业绩,中(zhong)(zhong)国面(mian)料(liao)为何还会(hui)被认为是“拖后腿”?


  面(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)生产方(fang)与(yu)服装(zhuang)设计(ji)方(fang)沟通不畅是重要(yao)原因,不过这也正是破题(ti)而上的(de)机(ji)遇。中国纺(fang)织(zhi)面(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)(qu)势(shi)研(yan)究与(yu)发(fa)布联(lian)盟(简称:趋(qu)(qu)(qu)势(shi)联(lian)盟)已经在行(xing)(xing)动(dong):4月中旬至5月下旬,趋(qu)(qu)(qu)势(shi)联(lian)盟“时尚万里(li)行(xing)(xing)”活动(dong)针(zhen)对(dui)2019/20秋冬季中国流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)面(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)开(kai)发(fa)环节,组(zu)织(zhi)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)(qu)势(shi)专业(ye)(ye)研(yan)究团队实地走访(fang)联(lian)盟企业(ye)(ye),针(zhen)对(dui)企业(ye)(ye)产品(pin)开(kai)发(fa)环节传递流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)(qu)势(shi)研(yan)究成果,涵盖纺(fang)织(zhi)新材料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)纱线、免烫印染面(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)、精(jing)毛纺(fang)面(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)、针(zhen)织(zhi)牛(niu)仔(zi)等数十种面(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)品(pin)类(lei),解读服装(zhuang)设计(ji)语言,结合市场需求(qiu),系列化指(zhi)导(dao)面(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)产品(pin)开(kai)发(fa),推(tui)动(dong)面(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)生产方(fang)与(yu)服装(zhuang)设计(ji)方(fang)的(de)创(chuang)意互动(dong)和价值共赢。


  把握市场节奏,前瞻时尚爆款


  赢得市场青(qing)睐的“爆(bao)款”服装需要设计与面(mian)料合力打造,然(ran)而如何才能击中消费热点?在服装设计智慧之外,纺(fang)织面(mian)料企业(ye)还要诊脉市场节奏。


  此次“时尚万里行”活动中,趋势联盟企业开(kai)发新品不仅(jin)参考自身(shen)销(xiao)售数(shu)据,还从(cong)宏观层面借鉴国内外市(shi)场(chang)(chang)大数(shu)据以及细分领域供需(xu)分析。趋势研究专(zhuan)家与企业产品开(kai)发团队结合市(shi)场(chang)(chang)数(shu)据,从(cong)生活方式层面分析消费(fei)热点(dian)。


  例如(ru),江阴(yin)市(shi)恒(heng)亮(liang)纺(fang)织(zhi)有限公司(si)(国(guo)家针(zhen)织(zhi)牛(niu)仔流行(xing)趋势研(yan)究(jiu)中心)针(zhen)对未来市(shi)场,产品开(kai)发(fa)(fa)从(cong)色彩搭(da)配、穿(chuan)用功能角度直(zhi)指(zhi)“时尚运动风潮”;山东如(ru)意毛纺(fang)服(fu)装集(ji)团股份有限公司(si)(国(guo)家男装精毛纺(fang)面(mian)(mian)料流行(xing)趋势研(yan)究(jiu)中心)不仅做大货销(xiao)售,还发(fa)(fa)现了市(shi)场的(de)零(ling)售需求,在产品开(kai)发(fa)(fa)环节即设定一批面(mian)(mian)料产品满足零(ling)售市(shi)场;鲁泰纺(fang)织(zhi)股份有限公司(si)(国(guo)家色织(zhi)面(mian)(mian)料流行(xing)趋势研(yan)究(jiu)中心)则结合最新流行(xing)趋势,将(jiang)国(guo)际、国(guo)内两个市(shi)场的(de)热(re)销(xiao)产品综合考量,指(zhi)导两个市(shi)场的(de)产品设计,客观上为国(guo)内服(fu)装设计群体传递着国(guo)际服(fu)装设计的(de)面(mian)(mian)料选择方向。


  洞悉流行趋势,玩转产品设计


  走在(zai)时(shi)(shi)尚(shang)前沿(yan)是(shi)纺(fang)(fang)织服(fu)(fu)装产(chan)业发(fa)展(zhan)的特色(se)(se)内核。纺(fang)(fang)织面(mian)料(liao)作为(wei)服(fu)(fu)装设计(ji)的载体(ti),从色(se)(se)彩、图案、组织结(jie)构、穿(chuan)用功能等维度为(wei)其提供施展(zhan)空间(jian),因而问道时(shi)(shi)尚(shang),面(mian)料(liao)或为(wei)关键(jian)。


  “时尚万(wan)里行”活动的另(ling)一(yi)重点(dian)是分享流行趋势新知,引导(dao)企业专(zhuan)业探索2019/20秋冬中国(guo)流行面(mian)料的关键(jian)要素。关联纺纱(sha)、织造(zao)到印染及各种后(hou)整理环节,趋势专(zhuan)家从色彩(cai)、图案、肌(ji)理、质(zhi)地等多个维度与联盟企业互动探索创(chuang)新思路。


  例如,山(shan)东联润新(xin)材(cai)料(liao)科技(ji)有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)司(si)(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)纺(fang)(fang)(fang)织(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)新(xin)材(cai)料(liao)纱(sha)(sha)线(xian)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)研(yan)(yan)(yan)究(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin))以色(se)彩为切入口,从纱(sha)(sha)线(xian)环节即(ji)融(rong)合(he)最新(xin)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),呼应(ying)产业链下游的(de)(de)时(shi)尚需(xu)求;浙江(jiang)(jiang)红绿蓝纺(fang)(fang)(fang)织(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)印(yin)染(ran)有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)司(si)(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)数码印(yin)花面(mian)料(liao)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)研(yan)(yan)(yan)究(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin))在流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)引导下尝试各(ge)种花色(se)的(de)(de)无界融(rong)合(he);而江(jiang)(jiang)苏丹毛(mao)纺(fang)(fang)(fang)织(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)股份有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)司(si)(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)女装(zhuang)(zhuang)精毛(mao)纺(fang)(fang)(fang)面(mian)料(liao)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)研(yan)(yan)(yan)究(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin))、浙江(jiang)(jiang)三德纺(fang)(fang)(fang)织(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)服(fu)饰有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)司(si)(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)毛(mao)针(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)织(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)面(mian)料(liao)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)研(yan)(yan)(yan)究(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin))、吴江(jiang)(jiang)福华(hua)织(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)造(zao)有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)司(si)(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)锦纶面(mian)料(liao)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)研(yan)(yan)(yan)究(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin))、达利丝绸(chou)(浙江(jiang)(jiang))有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)司(si)(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)丝绸(chou)面(mian)料(liao)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)研(yan)(yan)(yan)究(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin))、yabo88vip登陆(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)再(zai)生(sheng)纤维(wei)(wei)(wei)素纤维(wei)(wei)(wei)差别化面(mian)料(liao)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)研(yan)(yan)(yan)究(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin))和广东健业纺(fang)(fang)(fang)织(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)集团有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)司(si)(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)休闲(xian)针(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)织(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)面(mian)料(liao)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)研(yan)(yan)(yan)究(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin))等趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)联盟(meng)企业则立(li)足全(quan)球秀场和服(fu)装(zhuang)(zhuang)品牌的(de)(de)分析结果,在新(xin)一季秋冬面(mian)料(liao)开发中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)创新(xin)“混纺(fang)(fang)(fang)”,融(rong)合(he)多样原料(liao)与流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)元素应(ying)对(dui)消(xiao)费升级的(de)(de)新(xin)需(xu)求;与之相应(ying),鲁丰织(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)染(ran)有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)司(si)(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)免烫印(yin)染(ran)面(mian)料(liao)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)研(yan)(yan)(yan)究(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin))、宁波纬一长毛(mao)绒(rong)有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)司(si)(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)人造(zao)皮草流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)研(yan)(yan)(yan)究(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin))、苏州橄榄枝纺(fang)(fang)(fang)织(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)品有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)司(si)(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)针(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)织(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)防寒服(fu)面(mian)料(liao)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)研(yan)(yan)(yan)究(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin))等趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)联盟(meng)企业则专注特色(se)产品,进一步(bu)淬炼专业精髓优化产品设计。整体(ti)上,从视觉(jue)维(wei)(wei)(wei)度、触觉(jue)维(wei)(wei)(wei)度、功能维(wei)(wei)(wei)度,全(quan)面(mian)融(rong)合(he)最新(xin)流(liu)(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)(qu)势(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)开发时(shi)尚产品。


  打通供需途径,升级对接渠道


  亦如《时(shi)尚大师(shi)》栏(lan)目提及的“困难”,面料(liao)供应(ying)链严重影(ying)响着服装设计工作的顺(shun)利进行(xing),中国流行(xing)面料(liao)就(jiu)针对这个痛(tong)点深度(du)发力。


  趋(qu)势(shi)(shi)联盟企业每一季的(de)新品都会录入由(you)中(zhong)(zhong)国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)纺(fang)织(zhi)信(xin)息中(zhong)(zhong)心(xin)(xin)、国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)纺(fang)织(zhi)产(chan)(chan)(chan)品开(kai)发中(zhong)(zhong)心(xin)(xin)开(kai)发的(de)人工智能工具“掌上趋(qu)势(shi)(shi)”,以流(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)势(shi)(shi)为逻(luo)辑(ji)呈现(xian)面(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)产(chan)(chan)(chan)品,并(bing)展(zhan)示(shi)组织(zhi)成分、生产(chan)(chan)(chan)厂(chang)商、联系方式(shi)等(deng)信(xin)息,只(zhi)需在(zai)移(yi)动端就可查(cha)看(kan)数万款面(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao);还有(you)全球首(shou)款人工智能时尚色彩(cai)分析系统(tong)AI Color Trend,由(you)中(zhong)(zhong)国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)纺(fang)织(zhi)信(xin)息中(zhong)(zhong)心(xin)(xin)和国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)纺(fang)织(zhi)产(chan)(chan)(chan)品开(kai)发中(zhong)(zhong)心(xin)(xin)基于中(zhong)(zhong)国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)应用(yong)色彩(cai)体(ti)系和中(zhong)(zhong)国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)纺(fang)织(zhi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)流(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)势(shi)(shi)研究(jiu)(jiu)与(yu)发布(bu)体(ti)系科(ke)学搭建(jian),并(bing)采用(yong)深圳(zhen)码隆科(ke)技有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)司的(de)人工智能图像识别技术(shu),以色彩(cai)为逻(luo)辑(ji)推荐面(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)产(chan)(chan)(chan)品。这些工具都可在(zai)Fabrics China微信(xin)公(gong)号(ID:FashionInsight-China)找到入口,既(ji)能从中(zhong)(zhong)查(cha)阅浙(zhe)江嘉名(ming)染(ran)整(zheng)有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)司(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)纬编针(zhen)织(zhi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)流(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)势(shi)(shi)研究(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)心(xin)(xin))的(de)纬编针(zhen)织(zhi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao),也有(you)海(hai)宁市(shi)天一纺(fang)织(zhi)有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)司(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)提(ti)花面(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)流(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)势(shi)(shi)研究(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)心(xin)(xin))的(de)提(ti)花面(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao),还有(you)无锡(xi)恒(heng)诺纺(fang)织(zhi)科(ke)技有(you)限(xian)(xian)公(gong)司(国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)功能性(xing)针(zhen)织(zhi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)流(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)势(shi)(shi)研究(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)心(xin)(xin))的(de)功能性(xing)针(zhen)织(zhi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)等(deng)等(deng),凡是参与(yu)中(zhong)(zhong)国(guo)(guo)(guo)(guo)纺(fang)织(zhi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)(liao)流(liu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)趋(qu)势(shi)(shi)发布(bu)的(de)产(chan)(chan)(chan)品都可一网打尽。


  如此(ci)一来,既利(li)于服装设计群体发现(xian)更多(duo)纺织面料(liao)以激发创作灵感(gan),也促进了(le)纺织面料(liao)企(qi)业的产品推广,并(bing)让供需双方从中(zhong)获(huo)取(qu)更多(duo)色彩(cai)搭配、服装款式等信息(xi)。此(ci)次“时(shi)尚万(wan)里(li)行”活动就多(duo)次应用了(le)“掌上趋势”和AI Color Trend,企(qi)业从中(zhong)获(huo)取(qu)了(le)色彩(cai)、图案、功能等多(duo)维创新灵感(gan),有效助(zhu)推了(le)趋势联盟将(jiang)中(zhong)国由(you)“世界加工厂”变(bian)为“时(shi)尚策源地”的发展愿景!

                                                                                                                                             (来源:纺织服装周刊)

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